The way I interpret this is sure, you can always reinvent a salad. You can go edgy with layering funky ingredients over a steak. But the preparation core must have something solid from the way people did it hundreds of years ago for it to retain that old excitement.
Both restaurants have splendid Italian fare, while 90 Secondi boasts floor to ceiling window views. Try Di Franceso’s calzones, photographed, or go for his advice: order something with old fashioned senseabillity, like the Risotto Al Funghi, aka. risotto and nutritious wild mushrooms. YUM!